I've been so busy travelling recently I have not had time to blog. Tonight, I've resolved to write up a story about a tiny (I mean really teeny) leather glove shop I stumbled across in Lisbon. Dating from 1925, Luvaria Ulisses has the air of an exclusive Lisbon institution. The miniature shop in Chiado might accommodate 3 adults at a real push, or in our case two adults and two small overexcited children.
The owner and master glove maker greeted us with a warm and friendly smile. The shop is too small to show a large number of pairs so the process begins by the owner, Carlos, asking me some questions. My favourite colour? Long gloves or short? Cotton or cashmere lining? My personality - outgoing or introverted? He then disappears behind a small arras, reappearing a short while later with three (perfect) pairs of gloves.
A small piece of theatre commences which sees the children awestruck into silence. First, Carlos stretches the fingers of the leather gloves slightly with a wooden spindle, then he puffs some fragranced dusting powder into each one. I am instructed to place my elbow on the small ornate cushion resting on the counter and he eases the gloves over my hand. They fit perfectly.
I decide on a short pair of black gloves with a cheeky dogtooth bow. They are fabulously understated, and fun at the same time. The children are enraptured. Carlos allows my daughter to try on some fuschia pink gloves and pose for a photo. She's happy, I'm happy. We leave with the gloves beautifully wrapped in tissue and and a box. A queue of customers stretches a distance outside the shop. Wonderful. Old school Lisbon, in all it's petite glory.
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